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A taste for tears

Shedding tears of joy for the spring pea soup

Just when I was on the defensive, shabby and redundant in the age of irony, the irony is that I hear "all over." And when I remember lunch last Friday, in the light of a steel-gray mist at Jean Georges, I think it must be true. My companions – my interrogators – a pair of Australian journalists come to talk about my memoir, insatiable: Life Stories Delicious excess. (They have even brought the issue of Australia for me to sign.) The speed with which we have recognized a link gourmandlich determined. It revels in a little jazz scatting of pleasure surprised the three of us along one of the treats in the chef fun gambit: a cube of mango with a touch of feta cheese in a drop of pesto with pebbles of chopped black olives. Sounds like a mix nonsense, you say. A square inch is all that is, for God's sake, but something in the fusion of these elements slightly likely to hit the palate and leaves the three of us atwattle. The esoteric edemame soup with almond oil together in a small glass confirms pleasure.

Always There is a tension for me in the risk that, although adorned with the star Jean Georges, could not meet my approval notices. So I feel just claim that shine I get when strangers, especially food professionals in the world, the love that I love.

I relax as food and travel journalist and editor Susan King turns on the recorder. Your questions are benign compared to his companion, Helen Razer. Example: "Have you played?" (Google later and I discover she's a TV personality and author of provocation Gas smells awful: The folly of being a crackpot and nihilism Everything is fine: a guide for beginners to thwarting the primary.)

I insist one must order the pea and parmesan soup I passed out during lunch in my past. Helen ridicule as a clay dish parmesan (yes, no foam loam) is set before her.

"This is it?"

"No, that's not true" to close, is not ready to be mixed or agitated before the waiter serves almost psychedelic green essence of peas on top.

Razer tastes and wheezing. His eyes, protected by long blonde bangs, grow bright, and we all realize that she is crying. She seems very happy about that.

Not Yet one can see largely positive in tears of joy during the chill of ironic distance. But for me, when. the taste and texture of high-octane emotions the table never turned dead by irony. I am the woman who spent many years in pursuit of an impossible Don Juan, he was a man who wept over the meat Chambéry home of a peach.

When someone asks why I am still reviewing restaurants after forty years and not get bored? I tell them it is for moments like this … for a day last Friday.

Chef Mark Lapice send an extra plate, like the kitchen when I usually do falls in both dishes
lunch $ 28 in the formal dining room. It is not just an ordinary citizen and I admit that it is inappropriate for me as a restaurant critic to accept this seduction without making them add to the bill (every extra dish on the menu is only $ 12). triangles of tuna sashimi Madai today with pieces of cake jewelry cherry-sweet and a touch of early spring Herby emulsion, cilantro is another opportunity for thoughtful and aaahing ooohing the three of us. "This is comfort food for unregrettably chic, "says Razer. Although she is known at home for his biting asides, I think it is meant as a compliment.

There are plenty of offers spring causes the pleasure expected of a four-star restaurant: Britney impeccably cooked asparagus batons silver dollar mushrooms, truffle vinaigrette sauce Netherlands hot scented with wine Château Chalon. There is always some semblance of a pigeon. Today it is rare in Roman sautéed smoked, but the surprise is a lot portabello gill dry, spicy and crisp. What mind could have imagined? Do you jump to the head chef at sunrise insomniacal? Oh, spicy pea foam (The foam much despised my colleagues profess to hate) is filled with a mouth like shaving cream, obscuring the subtle flavor and aroma of sweet bread. I'm high enough now (But not on wine) to ask the waiter to remind the chef that "froth" is "so long."

The dessert is a disappointment. As the first food writer to advocate for the extraordinary talent of pastry chef Johnny Iuzzini only months after arriving, I found it so sad and obsessed by the need to be creative has lost track of why rhubarb lovers can not wait for spring. His conclusion rhubarb is not that strange fruit at all. He suggested once their real magic lies in chocolate, lemon, fruit and undisguised glory, not the blue cheese sauce with semi-sweet chocolate. He has punished me severely for not give me chocolates to take home no more. But today gells lychee and kalamansi are blatantly chocolates exciting and I think again as the best in town. (As no more boxes to go, try not to leave any behind the table.)

On November 2, 2002 New York I wrote:

New Prince Crown Confectionery: Johnny Iuzzini (Jean Georges)

Go West young man. At age 19, Johnny Iuzzini was turning tuile of Daniel Boulud at the original Daniel. When he decided to take a break and see the world at 28, Boulud loaned him $ 10,000. No wonder he thinks like a second father Boulud. However, years later, when the first touch pastry walked 65th Street, Dad did not quite trust an American to head his team of pastry and sweets are French classic dicta. Good time to join Jean Georges, where you can fly Iuzzini.

"Jean Georges gives the spirit of what you want and just go with him, "marvels Iuzzini. Desserts come in flights: variations of chocolate or exotic fruits or autumn notions on four plates in a rectangle of porcelain. Mousse Luscious chocolate with caramel and salted peanuts hazelnut succès sits next cooled juniper, spices, chocolate soup with Devon cream, grilled pineapple with cardamom next to the mango soup with papaya and lychee sorbet and ginger.

Once a boy's club "peak platinum hair, Iuzzini has softened but still quite nice for media exposure. (It was the declaration under the decade.)

1 Central Park West, at the Trump International Hotel between 60th and 61 212 299 3900. Dinner Monday – Saturday, Lunch Monday – Friday, in the formal dining room. Nougatine is open for breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner seven days.

A veteran Zen Sushi Bar weaves

Suddenly, friends and followers who worship Japanese sushi are talking Toshio Suzuki at Sushi Zen. Elisa Herr refers to it in his review lecture book of sushi in the Food recent art. Her husband and co-conspirator Eddie Schoenfeld inconvenience us two seats ahead of Suzuki in the name of the Road Food Warrior. Amazing I can even think about eating again this Friday. I come home to Jean Georges at 5, soak in a hot bath, take a nap of an hour and awake as if I were a new woman has just begun the day. Hungry.

Suzuki is waiting. Tall and robust, with a sensual face wide, has gray hair in a ponytail straight cut as a show horse's tail, still black hair showing beneath her starched white cap. He smiles lazily. Size of us, I guess. Are we serious or dilettantes? How much we spend? "Are you going to start with sashimi?" Question.

"Yes" we chorus. I hope I tried their food before, more than twenty years ago, when Zen Sushi was further west. "I came with the designer, David Rockwell. I remember circles of light entering on the ground. "Smile," which David Rockwell. "

Nobody ever accused me of being too subtle. "Omakase," I say. "Give Eddie experience Schoenfeld. "

The clear, bright, simple but the order comes in a jar placed in an ice bank – a waiter poured an inch in an etched glass Czech shot glass. Then comes "the dish chef" while the waiter served us from behind advertising. Roman sliced seared tuna with grated radish and sliced yam snaps fermented designer look great in an elegant black narrow bottom bowl. The sweetness of the fish plays against acute bolts yuzu citrus. It is a way starter staggering.

A trio of snacks in a dark wood tray shown, again, from scratch, while Suzuki we reach below its efforts to combat plastic holders and wrapped fillets, developing, repackaging, slivering and fluting, stuffed and rolled with bamboo mat, irrigation and grating, the constant washing hands, creating two rectangles of ceramic in the elevator with us to celebrate petals and rolls stuffed squid and doodles – a sashimi Ikebana.

I'm distracted by a salad of creamy tofu with soy beans on a sheet Shisho, by a fish painted with kiwi and something firm and glossy Aoyagi clam in a pool of miso. So many flavors in a tapestry that demands to be savored slowly, as the chef works at the scene sashimi, a yield of about twenty minutes.

Finally, the two of us each has a miniature stage set in front of us. Standing places otoro voluptuous and support each other. Giant clam Tapes swimming in lemon brine. Mash Smoked salmon is rolled into a strip of daikon. Two slices of crispy scallops jockey shorts carry nori, so firm and fresh mussels and sweet, it's almost as if I vieira tasting for the first time. Satin raw squid daisy petal shapes around a heart of salmon roe and grated egg yolk. Lest it be overlooked, the chef unfolds to reveal a blade hidden inside the liver accident. I have kept the wheel of fat reduced to half tuna wrapped around a branch of heavily marinated combu for the final. A team of sea urchin in a dashi broth with kombu and dried fish seems dessert. The bowl pattern of "classic vegetables – yams, delicious stewed eggplant, burdock, pumpkin, the two halves of snow peas and a tiny piece of Sansho pepper – was meant as an intermezzo sorbet French "To rest the stomach between courses," says the waiter.

Is it a drain on the senses? Suzuki meticulous sushi seems disappointing after sensory bombardment so far … Last hours of mango Jean George and Madai. But rally for new fatty tuna, sea bream with a hit of wasabi and yuzu, engewa (fluke fin) live shrimp sushi and trembling in a neat little chair and rice – the stomach, head and tentacles emerge later, fried crisp and nutty. Rice is supposed to the object revered sushi. This is slightly sour, hot, well apart – would not surprise me to see that all grains pointing in the same direction (the latter, I imagine, impossible dream.)

The lacquered soup bowl is a treasure of the collection of the chef. The broth is too subtle, but the snapper to the surface is overcooked. What a shock. By the way Suzuki has what follows, cutting delicate freshwater eel imported freshly ground black pepper and wasabi upper node, I am sure that is destined to be the highlight. I am willing to stop him, but Steven will not surrender. And now the chef is toasted nori over ashen coals and I have curiosity. Bits fatty tuna are scattered over the rice and shaped hand roll crackling.

I imagine that either does not seem impressed by our resistance? As seal of the evening with strawberry sorbet, which is still working, the speed triple now, twist and bend more dervish Nureyev, the lead player in a giant dish for night the diners at a table somewhere beyond the cocoon of the bar.

"It was wonderful," I say, as Steven signs the check, $ 305 including tip. "Oishe. We enjoyed it very much."

"I liked it too," he confesses. "Well, yes. This is my stage. I have to look to see the reaction, so I know what the customer wants and what gives. That's why there are only ten places here. "Be careful: only works Suzuki Wednesday, Thursday and Friday night.

108 West 44th Street, near Sixth Avenue 212 302 0707.

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